VIENNA-PASSAU

Quite a few people warned me for the Vienna-Passau stretch: "It is the old folks biking highway". "Only tour groups do that stretch". "Too easy!", "Yawn...".

Okay, what does this really mean? I am picturing nice, smooth, well-signed bike trails, beautiful scenery, plenty of places to stop for a drink or a snack, sleeping options galore. Oh boy, was I right! Believe me, after a month of more adventurous riding, 4 days of smooth sailing is no problem for me. I thought it might be a bit boring in return for the convenience but no no no. The UNESCO protected Wachau area has this status for a reason. Holy moly, how sweet this area is. Ganz süß. Pedaling along the Danube, up and down rolling lanes through baroque villages, vineyards on the surrounding slopes, a stop at one of the many Heurige (wine gartens where the wine farmers/producers sell wine and snacks). The Heurige is open when a branch of pine branches is "ausg'steckt".

But even better than the Wachau I liked the Danube Loop, the river makes a sort of loop as huge granite walls forced the Danube to change direction 180 degrees.

There's more. Beautiful city Linz and learning about Most, a pear cider that is very specific to this area and, you might have guessed it, no shortage of Most heurige in wooden log shacks right along the bicycle path.

With the exception of some stretches in Hungary I have mostly biked on shared roads. I feel spoiled now I have finally arrived in bike path world. As Vienna-Passau is likely the best known bike path in Europe, it is sure a bit touristy. But there are hours I don't see anyone at all, especially in the morning or after 4pm. I suppose the senior bicyclists' schedule is in the 11am to 4pm range including a big lunch stop and no more riding after 'kaffee und kuchen'. Secretly I am a little jealous...